Marolles, Brussels

In contrast to aristocratic Sablon and the titanic law courts, Marolles’ narrow streets and cul-de-sacs have always been home to a multicultural society. A mix ofartisans, outlaws and immigrants from around the world has produced the typical Marollian: a rebellious, resourceful, joker speaking a dialect of Drench mixed with Flemish. Here the junk trade has been going on for years and markets are still held here every day on the square and in the ajoining streets. Make sure you visit this engaging district, which is in the provcess of disappearing. After the property developers, its now the resturants and fashionable clubs that are threatening its existance.

Place du Jeu-de-Balle
At 5am an enormous pile of disparte objects is unpacked and the collectors swoop. Amoungst all the rubbish you can sometimes unearth a real bargin. On Sundays they take more care over the presentation, and the prices too. The best time for bargin hunters is on Tuesdays or first thing on a Friday morning, but it’s entertaining at any time to catch the Brussels’s zwanze and watch deals being struck in Arabic.
Bric-a-brac every day, 7am-2pm

Café Alex
This is the stamcafe frequented by the old men of the area, one of the last they still feel at home in. Jokes in Brusseleir between sips of Maes, slices of life revealed in a nickname, and an owner with a big moustache who’ll tell you the secrets of bloempanch. Its best to go in the morning and don’t forget to admire the Art Deco furniture and stained glass, here since the café opened in 1926.
Opening hours; 9.30-2.30am, closed Wed.
Tel; 514 2288

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